Monday 25 November 2013

Finally in Vietnam

When I was young, two countries captured my imagination for their struggle and winning freedom.  One was Bangladesh and the other was Vietnam.

Last week I arrived in Hanoi with a lot of excitement.  The airport is small but orderly.  Visa was on arrival for a fee - of course my visit had to be cleared by the home office prior to landing.  There was order at the airport, I have seen chaos at Jeddah, Teheran, Cairo and Lagos. Even Tashkent a city in a former communist state of Uzbekistan is chaotic.  You could feel the presence of police, and people take instruction and line up as told.  Visa issuance was all electronic.  I applied and was told to wait.  In another 10 minutes or so, my passport page was on TV screen a text to voice translator announced my name - I realized that it was my name that was called from my photo.  I collected the passport, waited at another queue to clear immigration and was out.  My luggage did not join - the connecting time at Bangkok was too short.  Again another queue, fill forms, and was assured that the bags will be delivered to my hotel at 3:30 pm.  I got it at 7:30 pm.  Not bad.  I am used to waiting.

Outside the airport my driver asked me to wait at a spot and went to collect the car.  As I looked up, there was an electronic ticker board showing exchange rates for different currencies, and various stock prices.  I wondered what was defeated in 1975?  Imperialism or Capitalism?  It was a contrast to images I remembered - a girl running without clothes and her body burning with napalm; a colonel executing a Vietcong in cold blood; a helicopter struggling to take off due to overloaded refugees - and many more.

Hanoi (It is Ha Noi actually) is a well laid city of 10 million people.  French architecture mingles with modern buildings.  There's a stink in the air as you walk around, but the city looks beautiful at nights.  I stayed at the French Quarters of Hanoi, good feel, very busy, thousands of motorbikes and scooters - all travel at a constant speed of 20 kmph!  Road pavements are for people to sit, talk, eat or socialize.  If not, scooters are parked neatly like stacked sardines.  I was told that when people meet in an accident, they fix each others vehicles.  Roads are so crowded, so, the damage can't be more than a dent anyway.  No work for insurance companies.

Next morning a tour guide picked me and I was on my way to Ha Long for acruise.  It was prearranged.  The Ha Long bay is heritage listed collection of over 1600 islands - the diameter of these islands are less than their heights.  Met an New York - couple Tom & Marlene, with an adult daughter - Alexandra.  We were a group for the cruise - we enjoyed each others company.  As we cruised lunch was served - sumptuous sea food.

The boat anchored at one of the islands - we had choice of hayaking or pedal boating.  I chose the second one.  Too old for any risky business.  Back to the boat,then to another island for hiking to the top.  Excellent views of sunset, back to the boat for dinner, and to retire for the day.  I sat on the balcony and watched the full moon making its round in a clear sky.  Sales woman on boats came and went trying to sell cigarettes, chips,and alcohol.  They had a hook like the one used to pluck mangoes in Jaffna to exchange goods for cash.  All well arranged and was picturesque.



I was lucky to get a corner room with windows on both sides on the boat - so I was feted with moon light all night.  Next morning started with Taichi, breakfast, cruising to a cave,and back to the boat for cooking demonstration.  Not much to get excited here - we were shown how to make rolls with rice paper and slivers of vegetables, noodles, omelette and sausage.  Interesting and healthy snack.  Enough to keep kids busy for an hour or so.  Followed by lunch and back to the shores.  Ha Long is a must for anyone visiting Hanoi.  A two day one night excursion costs 175 USD.  Not bad at all.


Back in  Hanoi, I tried to make a conversation with young Vietnamese about the war.  I was met with silence and smile.  Almost like the way it was in Jaffna these days.  Finally a Canadian married to a local gave me an explanation - these people are Buddhists, yesterday is gone, tomorrow is not here, let's live the day -that;s the attitude! What an attitude to have!

I wondered why could not we be in SL be like that.  The 'War' makes news everyday in SL.  There are even columnists trying to find who to blame for all what we went through, tracing issues hundreds of years ago.  I think these columnists are old bitter people - hope they die soon - and I can only hope that the younger generation of SL behave like the Vietnam youngsters.  Only time will tell.

I did not have the same excitement when I went to Bangladesh in 2012.  May be it is just another part of the Indian sub-continent I am very much used to.  Although I was a bit disappointed for not getting any reflection on the war, I am glad that I had the opportunity to come.  Not sure if I want to return though.

1 comment:

  1. I have gone through your article. In 1976-77, when I was in Thailand I had the chance to move with many Viantnamese students. They were very friendly and did not much bothered about their past. Their main intention was to develop their war tone country. I think that now Vietnam is fastly developing and have good relationship with USA.

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