Are you serious, Again?

“Are you serious?” was the response of our guide, when I asked the bus to stop, so that I could take a photo of Vladimir Lenin’s statue.  We were about 30 people in four mini vans, on our way to visit a Soviet era-built dam in Norak.  I was in the first vehicle next to the driver, and the guide was sitting two rows behind me.  Until then, I haven’t had a chance to talk to her.  And now I decided that I should ask her reasons for her response.  I suspected that she did not like Lenin.

With Lenin at Norak

And, I did.  Her response surprised me.  She thought that I wouldn’t have heard of Lenin, and said she has a lot of respect for him, but more so for the current President of Tajikistan.  She is 23, born after the Soviet Union collapsed, and when Tajikistan was in a civil war.  She said that brothers were killing brothers, and the Tajiks were taking refuge in Afghanistan.  The President united the country and brought peace and prosperity.   She showed a lot of respect for the Russians, and complemented that Norak City is so clean, because most of the dwellers are Russian descendants. 

Dil Naz is a graduate in International Relations, spoke English, Tajik and Russian fluently, and showed-off her Hindi skills, she got watching Hindi movies.  She translated her name as a ‘Shy Heart’, but she was not shy.  Extremely bubbly and friendly, I thought.  Sharukh Khan was her hero.  On that day, she was helping her friend who was the tour operator.  At the end of the conversation, I asked her if I could take her photo, and she agreed.  Then I told her that I write blogs, and I will put her photo in my blog.  She smiled and said, “Are you Serious?”.  I winked!

Dil Naz - Not too Shy, I reckon

My mind started wondering about development during Soviet era in that area.  The site we were visiting is part of the upper catchment of Amu Darya River, which originates in Tajikistan flows through Uzbekistan and drains into the infamous Aral Sea.  The Soviets had built 32 dams on various tributaries of the Amu Darya.  These dams cascaded water from to the other, sequentially generating hydro-power, to share across the Central Asian Republics.  The practice continues even today.  The dam and the city we visited share the same name, Nurek (Norak).  It is 75 km east of Dushanbe, 304 m tall, making it the second tallest dam in the world.  The roads to the dam were well constructed, and included a tunnel through the mountains, approximately 5 km long.  All were done between 1961 and 1980. A very impressive infrastructure.

Second Tallest Dam at Norak

Not just in Norak, but wherever we went, we could see the ingenuity and hard work of the Soviets.  If only they did not enter an arms race with the Americans, as the wise Chinese have done, they may still be in power.  In one of streets in Dushanbe, I saw a USSR souvenir shop, suggesting lhe Soviets are very much alive in Tajikistan.

Back to my excursion/mission, which gave me firsthand understanding of the regional politics.  The mission was a part of a training to Afghani Hydrogeologists who work on a project funded by the agency I work for.  Hence, the training must be conducted in a country, who is a shareholder in the agency I work for.  This excluded Dubai, which would have been an ideal location.  The training contract was given to a British company, who had a Pakistani trainer.  Afghanis blame Pakistan chiefly for their predicament, so, they were not keen to go to Pakistan.  Pakistanis lament that the terrorists from Pakistan are originally from Afghanistan, who went to Pakistan as refugees.  Because a trainer is from Pakistan, the training could not be held in India.  And when it comes to visa for Afghanis, only India and Tajikistan are sympathetic.  So, the training was organized in Tajikistan.  Despite the cumbersome travel I had to incur, I am glad I went and witnessed a unique landscape and people!

Upstream of Norak Dam - Waksh River

There were about 25 Afghanis, and I was so dumbfounded when I saw them.  None of them fitted the picture of an Afghani I had in mind watching TV news.  Men in Salwar-Kameeze and turban on motorbikes, traversing rugged mountains.  Instead, they were of aged between 30s and 60s, in perfect casual-smart western clothes – very stylish – I must say.  None were obese.  Only one had a beard, not too long, and nicely trimmed.  Of all, he spoke the best English, and was engaged with instructors of all sessions.  As a matter of fact, the keenness to learn was very evident in all of them. 

I tried to start a conversation about security matters in Afghanistan with almost everyone I met privately.  Hardly anyone was keen on the topic, but I could put a picture together.  The westerners said the security in Kabul is Okay, and they avoid peak traffic hours.  A few districts of Kabul are relatively safe with gated communities and private security guards.  I have seen different forms of gated communities in Delhi, Lahore, Kuala Lumpur and Manila.  Must be something like them.  The city is under surveillance continuously by the Americans.  If anyone launches an attack, Black Hawks will take them on instantly.  An Afghani hydrogeologist told me that the Taliban does not disturb his work in provinces – their target is the army. 

I was told, and I believe, Afghanistan is NOT a failed state as Yemen or Somalia, and if the Soviets had stayed (till their Union collapsed), it would have been better for Afghanis and the region.  Only if the Americans left it to the Soviets, as they are now doing in Syria!  Possibly true.  In hind sight all are wiser.  

It appears that Russian are very much active to prevent terrorists moving from Afghanistan to Tajikistan, just like the way NATO is guarding Afghani borders by staying within Afghanistan.  When the NATO and the Russians are collaborating in major theaters today, why do the Americans want the Europeans to spend more money to beat-up the Russians?  Shouldn’t they be cutting down on their defense budget and provide better health care to their citizens?  Something very wrong with the Americans these days, I reckon.

The excursion was on a Friday, and I expected all to go to a mosque for lunch prayer – I was wrong.  They reminded me of the Omanis, who basically postpone their prayer till the journey is finished.  My Pakistani friends/colleagues would have stopped work when it is time for prayers.  As a matter of fact, not only on Friday when we were on an excursion, the topic of prayers was never brought up during any day of the week.  Obviously, it’s a private matter to all of them. 

Lunch is getting ready

The Table & Chairs are set for Lunch

I too have my religious restrictions – I do not eat non-vegetarian food on Fridays.  I expressed my requirement to Dil Naz, and she said, “Are you Serious, Again?” with a giggle, but organized Tajik Made French Fries for my lunch.

Aussie Cricket Shame

Last week was a sad week for Australian Cricket, and for Australians in general.  Three cricketers caught red-handed of impropriety, confessed and apologized after being punished by the CA.  My heart went out to all three and the coach as well.

Later, I started wondering what would have happened, if the act was not caught on camera?  Why would the South African Commentator and ex-fast bowler, Fannie de Villers advise the cameramen to track the Aussie bowlers?  Why will we now find out that an Aussie Umpire, Daryl Harper, warned Steve Smith and David Warner, during a Sheffield Shield game of possible ball tampering?  I can only conclude that these two cricketers, Captain and Vice-Captain of the Australian team had been indulging in foul-play and getting away with it.  Why would the two most successful batsmen indulge in this, I wonder!  If they were not caught, then they will continue to do so and have corrupted more youngsters, as in the case of Cameron Bancroft.

  

Australia is a great country to live, and the Australians take pride in fair-play.  But incidents like these make me wonder if it is still the case.  I am aware of many Senior Bureaucrats in Australian Public-Sector organizations rife with nepotism or cronyism.  Most of them get away.  Some get trapped when their excesses are caught on tape, as in the case of a Senior Water Bureaucrat in NSW.  Before he was forced to move-on, he has already corrupted his next-levels of administrators to do his bidding.  It was too late for very qualified and well-meaning staff. The next level administrators are condemned for rest of their career.  No respect from peers, and no self-confidence in their ability to make a sound judgment.

Australians are some of the most fortunate people in the world.  We enjoy a very high standard of living and almost all believe in hard work and fair play.  This culture needs to be preserved.  In the case of the Cricketers, the PM Turnbull has made the correct calls, and the Cricket Australia has acted swiftly.  It's in everyone's interest that all of us are mindful of Aussie ethos, refuse to be corrupted, and blow the whistle when there's a shred of foul play. 

We need not wait to be caught and embarrassed.  

The Filipino

“The Filipino is worth dying for”, proclaimed Ninoy Aquino.  And he did die for them.  His killing was one of the most brutal killings of an opposition leader in modern history.  He was shot as he got down on the tarmac, by an assailant supposedly at the behest of the then ruler, Ferdinand Marcos.

An inscription at the Edsa Shrine

Benazir Bhutto, as an opposition leader of Pakistan too, was killed brutally but her death seems to be in vain, considering what has transpired since then.  Ninoy Aquino’s death led to a people’s revolution, a lasting one indeed.  It was very different to the transfer of power, which took place in Zimbabwe, recently, where the military insisted on the transfer of power.  Ninoy’s widow, with the help of the Catholic Clergy, was able to arouse and lead the masses to protest daily, until the then Defence personnel decided to side with the People.  It’s over 30 years since then, and the Philippines have changed Presidents in an orderly manner through elections every six years.

The People Power Monument

So, what was special about the Filipino, Ninoy was willing to sacrifice his life for?  I am not sure.  I have been in the Philippines for two weeks, and my observations are only nascent.  But, they have been very positive.

Metro Manila, a city of 12 million residents and another few million-floating daily, functions in an orderly manner.  The City, at least the part I have been to, is very clean.  There are very little chaos and filth that I saw in South Asian Capitals.  People queue for their turn for everything.  There are queues in supermarkets, bus stops, and even to enter elevators.  There’s no pushing or shoving.  No one tries to jump the queue.  Manila, is a ‘Concrete Jungle’ and green spaces are rare.  But buildings are done in an orderly manner, and there’s sufficient concern for pedestrians.    

A view from a fly-over for pedestrians

I am often reminded of my Filipino colleagues Beth, Fe, Ella, and Jacquie, who supported my work in Oman.  I dealt with a young real estate agent to find an apartment to live, and she was very prompt, and the deal was done very professionally.  People address you as ‘Sir’, in each sentence; even when they do not agree with what you want.  Once, a security guard stopped me entering a car park to cross from one street to other.  He asked me whether I have parked a car, and I answered no.  Then he said, “I can’t let you pass through, SIR”.  Assertive denial, yet with respect. 

I went to the former US Air Base at Clark, which is about two hours from Metro Manila.  Once you leave the metro region, there’s plenty of greenery and agricultural fields.  I was accompanied by three Filipinos, all three were good company.  They explained the history of the Philippines, recent as well as the earlier ones, what they inherited from the Spaniards and the Americans.  They were circumspect about discussing recent politics, and the criticism of human right agencies, which was very understandable.  As we drove, we could witness the impact of the volcanic eruption of Mt Pinatubo, well after 25 years.  The river beds are silver grey, and they shone as the water flew over.  

Glistening River Bed at Clark Air Base

I am told that there are suspended particles from the volcanic eruption in the exosphere and thermosphere, defying gravity, but trapping a range of wavelengths from solar radiation.  They result in spectacular sun rises and the sun sets.

Sunrise from my bedroom: I wake-up to witness a new portrait every morning

The Clark Base is being redeveloped into a Green-City, and my host assured me that they will host the South-East Asia games at the new city in 2019.  That’s not even two years away.  This is in an area, which has not developed and was affected by the Mt. Pinatubo.  But, the Engineer-in-charge was confident that it will be done.  I hope he succeeds, and the sports facilities will be done on time.

I do not want to give a rosy picture of Manila, as I am repeatedly told that the crime in Manila is high.  Bag snatching from pedestrians at gunpoint and pick-pocketing in MRT are too frequent.  The day I arrived in Manila, I used my credit card at the duty-free shop.  My details were stolen, and a total of 1800 AUD was charged to it in two instances fraudulently.  The credit card company has refunded the money, but the card is now canceled.  So, I will take necessary precautions to protect myself, and I will caution you to do the same.