Are you serious, Again?

“Are you serious?” was the response of our guide, when I asked the bus to stop, so that I could take a photo of Vladimir Lenin’s statue.  We were about 30 people in four mini vans, on our way to visit a Soviet era-built dam in Norak.  I was in the first vehicle next to the driver, and the guide was sitting two rows behind me.  Until then, I haven’t had a chance to talk to her.  And now I decided that I should ask her reasons for her response.  I suspected that she did not like Lenin.

With Lenin at Norak

And, I did.  Her response surprised me.  She thought that I wouldn’t have heard of Lenin, and said she has a lot of respect for him, but more so for the current President of Tajikistan.  She is 23, born after the Soviet Union collapsed, and when Tajikistan was in a civil war.  She said that brothers were killing brothers, and the Tajiks were taking refuge in Afghanistan.  The President united the country and brought peace and prosperity.   She showed a lot of respect for the Russians, and complemented that Norak City is so clean, because most of the dwellers are Russian descendants. 

Dil Naz is a graduate in International Relations, spoke English, Tajik and Russian fluently, and showed-off her Hindi skills, she got watching Hindi movies.  She translated her name as a ‘Shy Heart’, but she was not shy.  Extremely bubbly and friendly, I thought.  Sharukh Khan was her hero.  On that day, she was helping her friend who was the tour operator.  At the end of the conversation, I asked her if I could take her photo, and she agreed.  Then I told her that I write blogs, and I will put her photo in my blog.  She smiled and said, “Are you Serious?”.  I winked!

Dil Naz - Not too Shy, I reckon

My mind started wondering about development during Soviet era in that area.  The site we were visiting is part of the upper catchment of Amu Darya River, which originates in Tajikistan flows through Uzbekistan and drains into the infamous Aral Sea.  The Soviets had built 32 dams on various tributaries of the Amu Darya.  These dams cascaded water from to the other, sequentially generating hydro-power, to share across the Central Asian Republics.  The practice continues even today.  The dam and the city we visited share the same name, Nurek (Norak).  It is 75 km east of Dushanbe, 304 m tall, making it the second tallest dam in the world.  The roads to the dam were well constructed, and included a tunnel through the mountains, approximately 5 km long.  All were done between 1961 and 1980. A very impressive infrastructure.

Second Tallest Dam at Norak

Not just in Norak, but wherever we went, we could see the ingenuity and hard work of the Soviets.  If only they did not enter an arms race with the Americans, as the wise Chinese have done, they may still be in power.  In one of streets in Dushanbe, I saw a USSR souvenir shop, suggesting lhe Soviets are very much alive in Tajikistan.

Back to my excursion/mission, which gave me firsthand understanding of the regional politics.  The mission was a part of a training to Afghani Hydrogeologists who work on a project funded by the agency I work for.  Hence, the training must be conducted in a country, who is a shareholder in the agency I work for.  This excluded Dubai, which would have been an ideal location.  The training contract was given to a British company, who had a Pakistani trainer.  Afghanis blame Pakistan chiefly for their predicament, so, they were not keen to go to Pakistan.  Pakistanis lament that the terrorists from Pakistan are originally from Afghanistan, who went to Pakistan as refugees.  Because a trainer is from Pakistan, the training could not be held in India.  And when it comes to visa for Afghanis, only India and Tajikistan are sympathetic.  So, the training was organized in Tajikistan.  Despite the cumbersome travel I had to incur, I am glad I went and witnessed a unique landscape and people!

Upstream of Norak Dam - Waksh River

There were about 25 Afghanis, and I was so dumbfounded when I saw them.  None of them fitted the picture of an Afghani I had in mind watching TV news.  Men in Salwar-Kameeze and turban on motorbikes, traversing rugged mountains.  Instead, they were of aged between 30s and 60s, in perfect casual-smart western clothes – very stylish – I must say.  None were obese.  Only one had a beard, not too long, and nicely trimmed.  Of all, he spoke the best English, and was engaged with instructors of all sessions.  As a matter of fact, the keenness to learn was very evident in all of them. 

I tried to start a conversation about security matters in Afghanistan with almost everyone I met privately.  Hardly anyone was keen on the topic, but I could put a picture together.  The westerners said the security in Kabul is Okay, and they avoid peak traffic hours.  A few districts of Kabul are relatively safe with gated communities and private security guards.  I have seen different forms of gated communities in Delhi, Lahore, Kuala Lumpur and Manila.  Must be something like them.  The city is under surveillance continuously by the Americans.  If anyone launches an attack, Black Hawks will take them on instantly.  An Afghani hydrogeologist told me that the Taliban does not disturb his work in provinces – their target is the army. 

I was told, and I believe, Afghanistan is NOT a failed state as Yemen or Somalia, and if the Soviets had stayed (till their Union collapsed), it would have been better for Afghanis and the region.  Only if the Americans left it to the Soviets, as they are now doing in Syria!  Possibly true.  In hind sight all are wiser.  

It appears that Russian are very much active to prevent terrorists moving from Afghanistan to Tajikistan, just like the way NATO is guarding Afghani borders by staying within Afghanistan.  When the NATO and the Russians are collaborating in major theaters today, why do the Americans want the Europeans to spend more money to beat-up the Russians?  Shouldn’t they be cutting down on their defense budget and provide better health care to their citizens?  Something very wrong with the Americans these days, I reckon.

The excursion was on a Friday, and I expected all to go to a mosque for lunch prayer – I was wrong.  They reminded me of the Omanis, who basically postpone their prayer till the journey is finished.  My Pakistani friends/colleagues would have stopped work when it is time for prayers.  As a matter of fact, not only on Friday when we were on an excursion, the topic of prayers was never brought up during any day of the week.  Obviously, it’s a private matter to all of them. 

Lunch is getting ready

The Table & Chairs are set for Lunch

I too have my religious restrictions – I do not eat non-vegetarian food on Fridays.  I expressed my requirement to Dil Naz, and she said, “Are you Serious, Again?” with a giggle, but organized Tajik Made French Fries for my lunch.