Wednesday 19 July 2023

Discovering Dhivehi Raajje

For those who do not know where Dhivehi Raajje is, it is the native name of the Maldives.  Their language is Dhivehi, a kingdom ruled by a Royal Family until 1968, hence the name.  I spent about ten days in May 2023, primarily working but also taking some time to relax.  The work took me to three islands, Thoddoo, Masafahi, and Hanamadhoo.  So, ten days on planes, boats, Taxis, and Foot.

Until I went to Maldives and spoke to locals, I assumed that the name Maldives is derived from Maalai (garland in Tamil) and Theevu (Island in Tamil), an archipelago shaped like a garland.  To my eyes, the archipelago does look like a garland.  No one in the Maldives has heard of this interpretation – it looks like it is made up in Sri Lanka (or probably in my imagination because Tamil is my native language).  Locals explain that Mal is from the Arabic Word, Mahall, meaning a stopping place, and  Dives meaning deep.


The Maldives

The Maldives comprises approximately 1200 islands, of which about 200 were inhabited.  In addition, it has a countless number of lagoons.  A population concentration drive reduced the number of inhabited islands to 186, but an electoral reorganization ended it to 187.  Each Island has at least a Jetty, a Mosque, a School, a Hospital, a Court, a Soccer grounds, and an Island Council Office.  All basic amenities are available on each Island and paid for by the public purse.  Some have airports to land propeller aircraft, which brings the Tourists to remote Islands.  Each Atoll has an Atoll Capital, and ferry services are available daily from these Capitals to each Inhabited Island within the Atoll.

A few Agricultural entrepreneurs have leased some uninhabited islands to grow tropical vegetables and fruits to supply other islands.  In addition, the hospitality industry had leased a few uninhabited islands and built Resorts.  They are the ones used to promote tourism in the Maldives, depicting the sun, waves, beaches, and the ocean. 

Tourism promotion does not accurately reflect the local culture.


View of a Resort Island

The culture in inhabited islands is Islamic, but in the Resort islands, flexible to meet the requirements of tourists.  I noticed that women live actively on inhabited islands within Islamic strictures.  They enjoy the beaches and are very mobile (on scooters), which is very pleasing compared to other Islamic countries I have lived or been to. 


Mobility of Women

Tourism, Fisheries, and low population have made Maldives the most developed South Asian Nation.  The workforce is largely from South Asia.  The combination of the Islamic lifestyle, the South Asian Workforce,  and the state of development reminded me of Oman, where I lived for nine years.  Their appearance, the many words they speak, and their phonetics reminded me of Sri Lanka, where I was born and grew up.  I was very comfortable there!



Fisheries - A Major Economic Sector

The streets of Male, especially in the older part, reminded me of Europe.  They were laid with bricks, and both sides were treelined.  Scooters parked neatly and tightly along the sides, stacked like sardines.  Most of the city's speed limits are about 30 km/h, and the cars take a gentle stroll.  The tariff of Taxis is fixed – transport within a locality is 30 MVR ( <2 USD), and between localities is 55 MVR (~3.5 USD).  There's no metering or haggling.  Expats are not allowed to drive Taxis, and most Taxi drivers speak well in English.  Traffic is largely disciplined, although Police are not visible.


Streets of Male

Even on inhabited islands, tourism is the mainstay.  All consumed goods have three taxes and a special fourth one for tourists.  Approximately 35% of what you pay is for the Government, in different taxes.  


The Thoddoo Island

I was on an Island named Thoddoo, a population of 2000, of which half are expats.  The size is about 4 km2, with about 60 Motels and a dedicated beach for tourists, where requirements of swimming attire are relaxed.  Swimming suits are not allowed outside this dedicated beach, and the locals avoid these beaches.  They have their own!


A dedicated beach for Tourists at Thoddoo

In addition to the Islands, countless Ocean Lagoons provide different ecosystems and offer a potential for reclamation.  The lagoons have coral barriers, preventing Ocean waters from mixing with Lagoon water.  Waves are stopped by these coral barriers, making the corals look like white fences.  The water inside the lagoon remains calm and, based on the depth, provides different hues of blue.  Some Lagoons near the Capital, Male, are being reclaimed for habitation.  I stayed in one of them named Hulhumale.  The development is in several phases, and the first has been completed.  Hulhumale is connected to Male by a bridge, providing access to the airport and Government Offices in Male.


Reclaiming Lagoons

The Capital, Male, is very vibrant, but the islands are the opposite – just too quiet.  So, it is your destination if you want to be in a vibrant as well as a quiet place.  And, of course, if you have a lot of money to spend, there are Resort Islands, some offer Rooms for 25,000 USD per night, I am told.  On average, a room in Male will cost about 75 USD; in a resort, it will cost about 250 USD per night. 

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