Sam & Faraq - A Sri Lankan meets an Egyptian

Let me introduce Sam.  That's me.  When someone wants to know my name, and I am sure that the relationship is temporary, I spare them the agony of learning my name - Prathapar.  In 2004, I was in Cairo attending a workshop.  The very first day, after the workshop, I wanted to hit the town.  As I walked outside the hotel, a man approached me and asked if I needed a Taxi.  I said yes, and asked for his name.  He said he is Faraq.  So, now you know who we are and what our relationship was.  It was a five day relationship, and that was brief.

I negotiated a price with Faraq to take me into town and return, and at the end of the trip, he took his money, and asked if I need to see the Pyramids.  I said yes of course, and he agreed on a price and time for us to meet next day, which was a holiday.  He showed up on time, drove to the point where Nile diverges, and then off to the touristic area.  There he introduced a man, who had offered to take me on a camel into the tourist park.  I made a mistake, I did not agree on a price.

The Camel owner walked along me on the camel, did the right things like photos and sphinx and pyramids, tombs and so on, and when the trip finished after about three hours, he asked for money, more than what a regular tourist company would asked.  Faraq was watching.  I knew the demand was too high, but I was not in a position to argue.  Too late.  I paid him, Faraq went with him and came back, when I realized that Faraq too had a cut in it.

Now I am really upset, but again, I had no way of confronting Faraq.  Instead I told him, that I feel that the Camel owner has cheated me, and Faraq should not take tourists to the Camel owner.  Faraq was quiet and listening.  In my mind, I have decided not to hire Faraq anymore.  When we reached the hotel I paid his dues agreed, and was about to go into the hotel.  Faraq called me, "Sam", and I stopped.  "How about this afternoon?", he asked in a feint voice, and I said , 'don't worry'.  Then he insisted that he likes to take me around, and agreed for a reasonable fare.  I did have the afternoon free, and needed a Taxi, and the fare was reasonable.

Faraq showed up promptly, and we toured all over Cairo, waited where he had to, told me to pretend to be a Muslim when walking int old mosques, so I need not pay entrance fee, took me to the joints where taxi drivers hang out for a snack - good food-cheap price - and it was fun.  Then I told him that I would like to go to a night club.

In Egypt night clubs open at mid night, and go on till early hours.  He took me to one, and negotiated a price for me and him with the owner, and it was reasonable.  The price included entrance fee, couple of beers, and dinner for both.  The club had a number of music troupes performing an hour each, and each one was different.  One of them was a male only, drum only band.  Beer, music, food and Faraq was really happy.  So was I, although the smoke started to bother me.  Around 3 AM I told Faraq that it was time to go.  He dropped me at the hotel, and we agreed that he will pick me up again next day afternoon.

There he was, and he said that he wanted me to visit his family.  I said fine, and after an hours drive, we were at his village.  He took me to his 'one room all in all house', and the wife was cooking.  She had no advance warning of this Sri Lankan visitor.  There was no electricity, firewood  smoking, the way it used to in our family kitchen some fifty years ago.  The food was simple, and ready.  We walked into his banana patch (a few trees well watered), there a few more joined in, a carpet was rolled out, and all of us sat and ate.  It was an unexplainable feeling.  I was in a peasant's backyard, eating his hard earned food.  But, I liked the whole thing.  It was about get dark, and then he said, why don't you come to a wedding in the neighborhood.  Me, the Sam, the ever curious could not resist the offer.

I have no idea where the couple were, and the party was on a back street.  Chairs were arranged in circles, men sat with their friends, and a local  band was singing.  I sat with Faraq's friends.  A man  brought room temperature beer, some one bought a six pack, I too bought another, and we started to drink.  Then I heard the band singing Sam something something.  At Faraq's instruction, the band was welcoming me!  I was called to the stage, I obliged, waved at all, and returned to the seat.  Suddenly I saw one of the men ripping tobacco out of cigarettes  and it raised my curiosity.  He then took a small plastic packet of Marijuana, mixed it with the tobacco, and started to roll the mix into cigars.  Well, I thought I better get out of there.  Told Faraq that I am feeling tired, Faraq and I said bye to all, and he dropped me back at the hotel.

The next day was the final day, Faraq was there to take me to the airport, and I needed a small hand bag for various souvenirs I bought.  Faraq took me to a travel bag maker, he bought me a sturdy well made bag for a very good price.

It was almost lunch time, and Faraq insisted that he should buy me lunch, because I had been paying for his meals for the past few days.  I said OK, we went to a cafe frequented by Taxi drivers.  It was not a street cafe, Faraq wanted to treat me well, and ordered a meal - a mixture of noodles and fried rice.  We had our lunch and were ready to head towards the airport.

Faraq asked if I needed to buy anything more.  I said, "No, my money is finished".  What I meant was that I am running out of Egyptian Schillings.  Faraq thought I had no money, and offered money from his dash board of his car.  I told him, that I meant Egyptian schillings, and since I am now leaving Cairo, I do not need it either.  He understood.  Faraq dropped me at the airport, I gave him whatever Shillings I had, a bit more than the taxi fare, he reluctantly accepted it.  We bid bye to each other.  A poor taxi driver, had shown me good times in Cairo.

I still wonder why he was nice to me?  Was it because I expressed my unhappiness with the Camel man and indirectly accused Faraq of dishonesty, and he wanted to show that he was a decent man?  Or was I a friendly customer, and Faraq was enjoying my company? I am sure Faraq is not doing this to all his customers.

I will never know why, but will never forget Faraq either.