Uzbekistan – Then & Now

I went to Uzbekistan’s Capital for the first time in April 1999.  It was a few years after the Soviet Union collapsed.  That was then.  My last trip to Tashkent was in Feb 2024.  That’s now.  Since April 1999, I had been to Uzbekistan about ten times, travelled to Karakl Pakstan in the North, to Ayakchi and Termez in the South, and to Samarkhand and Bokhra in between.  I reflect on changes over these years under selected issues in this blog.

Samarkhand

Arrival 

Then:  I went to Tashkent with a Sri Lankan friend from Lahore, Pakistan.  We arrived in Tashkent on a Friday afternoon, and the airport arrival was very chaotic.  Hardly anyone spoke in English.  Arrival forms were issued only in Russian.  We approached an officer in uniform and sought help to fill out the forms.  He demanded 2 USD to help us complete the form, and we obliged.

Now:  My last trip was in Business class on Uzbekistan Airlines.  When we landed, all Business class passengers were transported by a limousine to immigration.  The immigration hall was neat.  There were hardly any passengers except us.  The officer was curious to see the security features on my Australian Passport, made some small talk, and stamped the Passport—no forms to fill.  Our luggage came to a quasi lounge, where refreshments were available at no costs.  Comfortable seating while our luggage arrived.

Visa

Then:  I had Australian Passport, yet I need to get prior visa.  Once I landed in Tashkent around noon, but my visa came into effect from midnight that day.  There were no flights on the day the visa became effective, so I landed without a visa to enter Tashkent about 10 hours before the visa would become effective.  I was sent to a detention center with an armed guard.  In the meantime, a message was sent to my hosts, and I was allowed to enter after 5 hours of detention.

Now: Australian passport holders do not need a visa to enter Uzbekistan and stay for 30 days.

Accommodation

Then: We could not communicate with anyone when we exited the airport.  We identified a young man who looked like a Pakistani.  We approached him for help.  He did not speak much English, but it was sufficient for us to communicate.  He hired a Taxi, took us to a money changer, and then to Tashkent Hotel.  The Tariff was about 20 USD per night.  It was not maintained well at all.  Barely liveable.  Each floor had a bar, and prostitutes were knocking at doors at night, soliciting sex.  Most of them turned out to be hotel employees.

Posh Hotels in Tashkent

Now:  The hotel I stayed in 1999 is now run by the Korean Company Lotte.  It’s a super 5-star hotel.  There are many good hotels to choose from, and the price of a decent hotel would start at around 50 USD.  Most of the hotels built during the Soviet period have been refurbished and managed to international standards.  There are strict dress code to use swimming pools at hotels.  Men's swim wear must cover from the wait to the knees.  Female workers at hotels will not enter your room, if you are a male, and present when they come to clean.

Alcohol

Then:  Excellent quality vodka was flowing freely then and was sold at every corner shop, and half a liter would cost about 1 USD.  Almost everyone I met would have a drink.  One of my hosts would drink during office hours.

Now: The sale of alcohol is restricted to specialized shops, and there are rules where they can be located.  In particular, alcohol can’t be sold at supermarkets, and liquor shops can’t be located near schools.  A half liter of vodka would cost about 6 USD.  The quality still remains excellent.

Religion

Then:  Although Islam is the main religion in Uzbekistan, there are hardly any mosques or religious insignia to note.

Islamics Institutions in Uzbek Cities

Now:  Almost every city in Uzbekistan has newly built mosques.  Many restaurants would not serve alcohol.  Several tuition centers teach Arabic and the Quran, and tour operators specialize in Haj and Umra in Saudi Arabia.  Uzbeks have been the second most common pilgrims to Mecca and Madina in recent years.

But there are things remain the same:

Natural Beauty:  The landscape vary tremendously across Uzbekistan.  It's borders with Afghanistan and Tajikistan are rugged and BEAUTIFUL.  The mountains are grazed by mountain goats are shepherded by young men on horses - a sight not to be missed.

The Wilderness of Uzbeks border with Tajikistan

Public transport – Intercity transport by speed trains and road infrastructure are some of the best I have experienced. 

Trains Travel at 250 km/hr, connecting major cities

And there's always the traditional means of transport

Food & Drinks:  Uzbekistan offers the best of cooked meats, fresh salads, fruits, bread, and, of course, alcohol.

Soups, Smosas, Salads, Kebabs and Bread - delicious 

Culture:  

Operas are a regular part of Uzbek's life - Then and Now

Heritage:

Uzbekistan is home to Samarkhand and Bokhara, but, less known is a Budhist Monastery along the border with Afghanistan.

Budhist monastery 2000 years ago at Termez

Friendship and hospitality:  Uzbeks are second to none in this area.  The blend of Soviet customs with Islamic values is still potent when they host friends.  Nothing but the best is reserved for their visitors.