Jaffna is Back

I was born in Jaffna, and except for two years of primary education, I did all my primary and secondary education in Jaffna.  My grandparents, parents, uncles, aunts, teachers, schoolmates, and neighbors shaped my ways as I grew from a kid to an adult.  Although my life in Jaffna is only 15 years, about 20% of my life, the Jaffna boy inside me is very much alive.  

Except for two weeks in August 1984, I was absent from Jaffna from 1980 till 2010 for many reasons.  My first return to Jaffna in 2010 was arranged by my close friends from Bibila!  Since then, I have been to Jaffna a few times, and always for two or three days, because during the past 45 years, I have pretty much lost all contacts in Jaffna.  I felt that Jaffna was frozen for the 30 years I was away.  Nothing has changed except remnants of the war, such as the bullet-ridden railway station.

Jaffna Railway Station immediately after the war, and at present

My last trip was this week, again for two days.  During the Civil War, we had nearly 30 years of damage done to the infrastructure and morale of people in Jaffna.  In 2010, I felt that it might take more than two generations for those left in Jaffna to bounce back and lead the life they deserve – free from fear and violence, exhibit their entrepreneurial skills, and prosper.

After my trip this week, I believe that have been pessimistic in my views.  I think Jaffna is back, developed, and at par with any other city of the same size in Sri Lanka or anywhere else in South Asia.  Here are my reasons.

Education

Education up to high school was the best in Jaffna in Sri Lanka.  There were more A-grade high schools in Jaffna than in Colombo, the Capital, thanks to a healthy competition between Christian Missionaries and Hindu philanthropists.  Only a mile or two separated these high schools.  They produced top-notch applicants to Universities in Sri Lanka, which led to a foolish standardization system that led to the Civil War.  It was a sad development, which has been gradually rectified since then.  But it was too late to change the direction of movements that sought separation.  I think recruiting students to publicly funded universities now is fair and provides sufficient opportunities for students from rural areas without depriving those with merit.

The Administration Building of Faculty of Engineering, Jaffna University  

I visited the Faculty of Engineering of Jaffna Campus for a few hours and met with three academics.  The relatively recent infrastructure is as good as any university campus I have been to in Asia.  Of course, the essence of being old, which is ever present at Peradeniya University, is not at the Faculty of Engineering, Jaffna.  That has to be expected.  All three spoke confidently, were proud of their curriculum, and used government and international collaborators' funds to build the teaching and research facilities.  By splitting the students into groups and clever time-tabling, all students have equal access to their facilities.  The Engineering Society of Sri Lanka accredits the curriculum.  Hence, an Engineering student from Jaffna has the same education a student from Moratuwa or Peradeniya University would have.  They want to do more and build their research and post-graduate program.  A few of my Jaffna-origin contacts, who are internationally reputed, are volunteering time to support the young academics.  I have volunteered online support, the best I could do.

Religion

An attribute that underpins Jaffna culture is Religion.  All religions thrived, and Jaffna never experienced religious conflicts.  Everyone worshipped at all religious institutions.  A British Friend once said that Sri Lankans take insurance from all Gods—no chances taken.

Temples, Churches, and Mosques were unscathed even during the Civil War.  Despite the call for Muslims to evacuate from the Jaffna Peninsula during the Civil War, there's no evidence of mosques being damaged.  Now that the Islamic community has returned to their ancestral homes, they thrive well in Jaffna.  

All temples have their Kopurams (towers) repainted, which brims with pride.  Even the temple tower at Mavittapuram temple is undergoing rehabilitation.  It was used by Hindu fanatics to discriminate against fellow Hindus, leading the Courts to order a shutdown for all.  When the Courts in Sri Lanka denied the fanatics' call to refuse entry to specific Hindu Communities, the proponents took the case to the Privy Council in the UK.  It remains the last case taken from Sri Lanka to the Privy Council, and the Council did not entertain it either.  Unfortunately, the man who led the case for the fanatics was considered an intellectual of the time.  He was not alone.  It was the time when many intelectulas, used their interlect to pander hate among Sri Lankans.  Donald Trumps of Sri Lanka!

It can never happen in Jaffna anymore.  Jaffna is a much better society now than it was in the sixties.  During the Civil War, the Temple fell within the Protective Zone, and Government forces refused entry to this zone for decades.  All of it is history – efforts are underway to bring the Temple to the glory it deserves.

Maavittapuram Temple Kopuram is being renovated

Festivals at Temples are at their best ever now.  In the seventies, a neighborhood Temple my family went to had a Priest who would be assisted by another priest from a neighborhood temple during annual festivals.  I went there a few days ago when the annual festival was inaugurated this year.  The Chief Priest had five assistants.  Rituals are expanded more than they were in the seventies.  Garments worn by the deities and the priests were more colorful than before, reflecting their availability and affordability.  Good on them.

Vibrant Poojas at Hindu Temples

Industry and Economy

Before the Civil War, there were two prominent factories; one produced Cement at Kankesanthurai, and another produced chemicals at Paranthan.  The cement factory contributed to air pollution and breathing difficulties for locals.  Both have been inactive since the commencement of the Civil War.  There have been discussions and plans to rehabilitate the facilities and resume operations over the years, but progress has been slow.  Large capital injections would be required, and the revival must be done based on its environmental sustainability and financial viability.  Recently, the garment industry has emerged as a significant employer in Kilinochhi.  I also know that the Tamil Diaspora supports small businesses with Capital and expertise.  There are Travel agencies, Goat farms, and Construction Companies supporting the Jaffna Economy.  The Jaffna Bazaar is full of people.  

Jaffna Bus Station

Descendants of successful businessmen in the seventies have re-established businesses, maintaining the brand names – Subhas and Gnanams, for example.

Gnanam Guesthouse - It was Gnanam Studio in the Seventies - Yes, we went to a studio to take photos

Lifestyle

I cannot comment on this, as my stays have always been brief.  But what I saw on the streets was encouraging.  Newly built bridges have solar powered street lights.

Road connecting Poonagari with Jaffna Penisula - A site of fierce battles during the Civil War

Despite far better roads now, there's traffic – mostly motorbikes and scooters, and fewer bicycles than before.  School children are appropriately dressed and marching to school with cricket-wickets.  

Books in the back, and Wickets in hand, time for school

Auto rickshaws and mini busses have replaced hire cars of the sixties, in which students were stacked as sardines.  Women of all ages are on scooters – they move freely, which is always a good sign of the social fabric.  

Women on the move, as always!

There are restaurants and eateries everywhere, at all prices.  The abundance of these restaurants indicates that the locals are frequenting them to ensure their financial viability.  I think they should serve local foods, rice & curry, hoppers and so on.  Most of the upper-end restaurants serve Chinese and Indian food rather than Jaffna food.  Maybe because people eat Jaffna food at home and want to try something different when they go out, I get it.

Chollan Restraurant in Kilinochi - Could easily seat 100 patrons at a time

Deceased are taken on modified four-wheel drives.  And the drummers are playing modern drums – not the locally made drums (parais).  The tunes have not changed, though.

Overall, Jaffna's resurgence is a testimony to the resilience within human beings.  Without the war and injection of funds from the government, donors, and the diaspora, and with their hard work and inherent values, Jaffna is BACK!