Ella, Sri Lanka

I was born in Sri Lanka and did not leave the island till I turned 26.  I have lived in Jaffna for most of my life, but I have also lived in Peradeniya near Kandy for six years, and I lived in Colombo for about two years.  I have heard of Badulla, a city where one of my aunts taught; Gampola, another city where one of my neighbors taught; Bandara Wela and Hatton, where two of my classmates in Jaffna came from.  Other than these cities, I have heard of Batticaloa, Trincomalee, Kataragama, and Galle, which are other major cities in Sri Lanka.  I have never heard of Ella, a town between Badulla and Bandara Wela, now the poster child of Sri Lanka, attracting hoards of tourists in recent years.  I first learned of Ella on a YouTube clip in which the Ella train station was promoted as a Green Station.  The Station Master and the Staff spent two hours a day when trains were not passing through, mending its gardens and keeping the station clean.  I travel through Sri Lanka often, and I added it to my bucket list and went there recently.

At Ella Green Train Station

The best way to travel to Ella from Colombo is by train, which will take about seven hours, or from Kandy, which will take about four hours.  Tickets are sold out months ahead, so anyone who wants to travel to Ella by train must plan and book tickets well ahead.  The next best thing to do is travel from Nanu Oya to Badulla via Nuwara Eliya and Ella.  The scenes are spectacular.  Unfortunately, I could not make any of these trips.  Instead, I had to take a bus ride from Colombo to Ella, which took four hours, sans most of the scenic beauty.  I had to settle for the views between Mattala and Ella, which were beautiful as well.  I intentionally took a daytime bus so I would not miss the views.  The bus reached Ella around 2 pm.

Ella's business district is the main road (A23), about 1 km long.  Cafes, bars, bakeries, boutiques, creameries, and restaurants are on both sides of the road, and almost everyone on the street is a tourist.  Finding a restaurant that served Sri Lankan rice and curry was hard, but they were there.  The cafe I had lunch was built on the side of a rock, on man made platform.  Getting up was an excercise itself, but fun.  I had lunch and decided to walk to the train station I saw on YouTube.  

Rice & Fish Curry Lunch

There were tourists and guides taking photos and waiting for a train to arrive.  It turned out that a train from Badulla was about to come, which would go over the Nine Arch Bridge, the poster child, which gets rave reviews.  The Nine Arch Bridge, between Ella and Demodera, is 2.5 km from Ella.  Some wanted to see the train crossing the bridge, so they walked along the tracks towards the bridge, aiming to arrive before the train crossed.  A one-way ticket from Ella to Demodera is 50LKR (15 US cents).  I got one and waited with others to board the train.

While waiting for the train to Demodera

As the train arrived, there was a bit of excitement among those who wanted to board the train.  But, they have to give way to those who were deboarding.  The train emptied itself at Ella.  I found a seat in the ordinary class (it used to be third class as I knew it), along the side from which I could have a good view of the train as it bends its way over the Nine-Arch Bridge.  Next to me was a Ukrainian couple, two of their children, and their guide.  I tried to have a small conversation, but their English was poorer than my Ukrainian, so the conversation was limited.  They offered me a piece of milk toffee, a Sri Lankan sweet, and I courteously accepted.

 From the train - while passing onlookers at the Nine Arch Bridge

The train departed Ella and crawled its way to Demodera.  A six km journey took 15 minutes.  No one was in a hurry.  Youngsters leaned outwards from the train, hanging their bodies in the whizzing air.  I had done this before; I was much younger then.  I took plenty of photos and videos, anything still and everything that moved.  

The Train on the Nine Arch Bridge

I arrived at Demodera, took an auto rickshaw, and went to the hotel at Ella.  The name of the hotel is Ravana Range, named after the demon king who abducted Sita from Rama.  Despite the villification of Ravana else where, he is celebrated in this part of Sri Lanka.  A water fall and a bar are named after him.

The hotel was about 4 km from Demodera, and the auto fare was 1500 LKR.    Compare this to the 50 LKR I paid to get from Ella to Demodera.  There's a price to pay if you are a tourist.  The hotel room was grand for the price I paid and its location.  It was meant for a small family.  The view from the balcony cut through several valleys and was delightful.  At a distance was a waterfall – Kittal Alla Waterfalls, I could see.  I sat on the balcony and watched the darkness engulfing the landscape.  As the night submerged the landscape, so was tranquility.  I could only hear an occasional three-wheeler whizzing a few kilometers away.

My Hotel Room

The Ravana Range Hotel, Ella

Kittal Ella Water Falls

A Tea Estate

Despite a long day of travel and a comfortable room, I could not sleep and was on the balcony by 5 am, waiting for the sun to come up.  I was glad that I did so, to witness every shade of every color change minute by minute.  The best was seeing the sun rising on top of a mountain.  As a kid, when we drew sunrise, the sun always came up from the valley, not on top of a hill.  Not sure why we drew so.  I was not alone; there was another middle-aged European couple, and a squirrel gave me company.

  

Sunrise at Ella - Views from Ravana Range

I then had breakfast – hopper with honey for the first time in my life and then went to bed.

Hopper with Honey

The checkout time at the hotel was noon, so I called a three-wheeler to get back to the city via a visit to the Nine Arch Bridge.  I wanted to stay on the ground and watch the train pass this time.  The luck was with me, and as I reached the bridge, I saw hundreds of tourists eagerly waiting for a train to enter through a tunnel.  A young couple was on top of the bridge, embracing each other - very romantic.  As the train exited the tunnel, the crowd clapped and cheered, and to my surprise, this train stopped on top of the bridge.  Some passengers got out of the train, and some onlookers got into the train.  It was surreal.  

A train exit from a Tunnel to go over the Nine Arch Bridge

A Train on Nine Arch Bridge

A Couple on Nine Arch Bridge

Once the train started to move, the tourists left, and I went to the town to catch the bus back to Colombo.  I kept wondering what has changed since I left Sri Lanka in 1980, which has made Ella a popular tourist destination.  The mountains, the bridge, and the trains were all there when I left, right?  I reckon it is the Tourism Industry, which was not well developed in the 1980s.  The tourism industry has become one of the country's leading sources of foreign exchange, largely due to the efforts of industry leaders who have developed Ella into a prominent destination.

Appeal for Global Cooperation to Advance Science and Technolgy

Science and Technology have significantly advanced the quality of life in numerous ways, impacting health, communication, education, transportation, increasing connectivity, making daily tasks more convenient, and providing vast range of entertainment.  Despite the progress in Science and Technology, many problems, such as climate change, clean energy, pandemics, food insecurity, etc., have no solutions yet.  By isolating each other, China and the US delay solutions reaching the masses.

Competition among researchers is good to some extent, so is collaboration among researchers.  However, the chase for supremacy between China and the US, by banning each others technology, is hurting all.  China was the first to ban US technology (e.g. Google), because it would not allow the required censorship by the Chinese.  Now it has been both ways.    

There are many benefits when powerful nations collaborate to develop Science and Technology.  Combining the strengths can lead to faster breakthroughs for the global community.  

The recent release of DeepSeek AI Chatbot showed that China can develop a Chatbot without superior chips.  Science progresses incrementally by improving what is available or thinking entirely out of the box and new.  In this case, the Chinese have taken the second path, partly because they were denied NVIDIA super chips.  This battle between the US and the Chinese confirms the adage - a pen is mightier than a sword.  

US companies wanted to use brute force, faster chips that consume large amounts of energy.  Bill Gates started promoting nuclear reactors to power AI.  I think some other tech companies have invested in nuclear reactors.  A more intelligent algorithm that uses slower chips and requires less energy has won the battle.  This also supports the thesis that the primary resource of a country is its people.  1.4 Billion Chinese will always be greater than 350 million Americans.  Of course, the population needs to be educated and disciplined - Chinese are, and Indians are not there yet.  

On the other hand, suppose superior NVDIA chips were available to the Chinese scientists?  The DeepSeek would have been even more efficient and comprehensive than what it is now.  An opportunity missed.

The sad truth is that the US and its allies ban new and efficient technologies from China (solar panels, smartphones, electric vehicles, social media (Tik Tok), or AI (DeepSeek)), citing National security when they are more worried about losing markets in the short term.  The Australian government recently banned DeepSeek from being on government phones.  It does not want its employees to use an efficient chatbot when it intends to make them more efficient and competitive than their contemporaries around the world.  Why ban proven and efficient technologies from your own workforce?  Why compete with one hand tied to the back?  What an irony! 

When the West is boycotting the Chinese Technolgy, China progresses, so, are many third world countries, who have no qualms accepting the latest (Chinese) Technologies.  Many of them have better internet facilities, EVs etc. than what we have in Australia.  That's a sad fact.

Collaboration can open up new markets for China and the US.  When globalization was promoted in the early 1990s, the case West made was that globalization would open 100% of the global markets instead of a mere 5% in the US.  This had been a very positive move, which lifted about 1/3rd of the global population out of poverty within 30 years.  China had a significant role – it made technology affordable to the masses in the third world.  A typical example is the cheaper smartphones made in China, accessed by people experiencing poverty who could not afford iPhones.  

Of course, there were Chinese phones, such as Huawei, which rivaled the iPhones and Samsungs.  Instead of competing with Huawei, the US and its allies chose to ban Huawei on the grounds of National Security.  

BTW, I think the reason given for banning Chinese technology is that the Chinese will access our data, and it is detrimental to our National Security, is pretty weak.  I doubt there's hardly any data that is not available in public databases, which will only be available if we use Huawei.  All Governments publish census data, including home addresses, demography, income data, and data on share market performance, all available publicly.  All scientists publish their findings, and their peers' acceptance of their conclusions leads to career advancement.

The US companies successfully used the manufacturing strengths in China to produce their products on a mass scale, cheaply, and make them available to the rest of the world.  Once, the CEO of Apple lamented that if he summoned all US technicians with a particula expertise, they would fill an auditorium, but in China, he would need an athletic stadium.  Another US commentator said there are more honors students in Chinese universities than all University students in the USA.  

Technological competition between the US and China leads to tensions and mistrust.  Collaboration can help build trust and reduce the risk of conflict.  By working together on shared goals, both sides can foster a more cooperative and stable international environment.   Collaboration fosters cultural understanding and intellectual exchange, which can lead to more creative and inclusive solutions.  It also helps bridge differences and build mutual respect between societies.

The potential benefits of collaboration between the US and China in technology development are immense.  By working together, both sides can drive innovation, leverage their strengths, and fill gaps in their capabilities to address global challenges and create a more prosperous and sustainable future for all.  

Discontent in my Homeland, Jaffna, Sri Lanka

A week ago, a National Party (NPP) won 21 out of 22 electoral districts in Sri Lanka.  The 21 includes four of the five districts of the Northern and Eastern Provinces of Sri Lanka.  A mainstream national party, not one based on communal lines, has won the people's confidence in the North and East.  These provinces are traditionally considered the homelands of Tamils, an ethnic community I belong to.  Such a victory for a National Party has never occurred since Independence in 1948.  How so?  Here's my two cents worth.

Jaffna Bus Stand

First, some statistics:  Nationally, 68.93% of registered voters voted in this election.  This is regarded as a low turnout for Sri Lanka, while it is comparable to or better than the voter participation in other democracies.  Many reasons are given – voters expected NPP to win, i.e., they knew the outcome; or because the election was held on a weekday, voters had other things to do.  However, in the Jaffna District, the percentage of people who voted was less than the national turnout, and it was 60.37%.  It is almost about 10% less than the national statistic.  The 40% of the Jaffna voters have already rejected ALL candidates who contested the elections, despite there was no shortage of candidates.  There were 43 candidates for each seat in the Parliament.  The voters probably felt (1)  Voting makes no difference, (2) No one deserves my vote, or (3) my grievances are so strong I can't bring myself to vote for a National Party.

Landscape along the Coast

The common reason provided by observers for the NPP's victory is that the Tamils were not united, as they had been before.  Tamils have been contesting under a united banner for the past 50 years, which included 30 years of the Civil War that ended 15 years ago.  The common and the ONLY goal of the United Front was to obtain a Federal System of Governance within Sri Lanka, and secure Tamil Nationalism.  

Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Temple

In this election, the United Front (TULF, TNA, etc.) was split into five groups, and two of the traditional parties, the Ilankai Tamil Arasu Kadchi (ITAK) and All Ceylon Tamil Congress (ACTC), won a seat each.  Three of the remaining four seats from Jaffna District went to the NPP, and the fourth went to an Independent Candidate.  

Ariyakulam Buddhist Temple, Jaffna

How did the NPP convince Jaffna Voters, who never trusted a National Party?  The NPP offered a clear manifesto:  First, address the economic (inflation) and Governance (waste and corruption) issues that ALL Sri Lankans face.  The second is to increase Tamil Management/Leadership in Government Agencies and Factories in the North and East, including a promise to increase Tamil Police Officers in the North and East.  The voters realized this deed would allow the local population to engage with government officials without dealing with language barriers.  The third is to make Provincial Councils active by holding elections soon.  This one, combined with the second one, goes a long way in meeting the requirements of the Federal System demanded by the United Front parties.  And finally, the NPP has offered to repeal constitutionally sanctioned discrimination among Sri Lankans.

Yet, the votes received by the NPP are less than the votes cast against them (to other parties) in this election.  But large enough to secure three seats.  The opposition to NPP was split in many ways, despite the expectation that Tamils should be united.  

I find this an unrealistic expectation, and as it has happened in the past, it was not beneficial to people in North & East.  People have different aspirations and requirements.  Nationalism is one of them, but not the only ONE.  A total of 8800 candidates contested 196 seats Nationally in the last election, an average of 45 people per seat.  In Jaffna district, there were 43 candidates per seat, just as the rest of the Country, where Nationalism was not an issue.  People think differently, and their needs and expectations are different.  

Pizza Delivery Vehicle, Jaffna

For some, Nationalism is important, but for many, just a peaceful life, the ability to afford quality food, education, and healthcare for their family is more important.  We need to recall that the causes of the Nationalistic Movement in the North and East were a lack of economic and educational opportunities in the 1970s.  Consecutive National Governments wanted to develop Sinhala Districts by depriving opportunities for Tamils.  Had they resorted to developing the Sinhala districts WITHOUT depriving the Tamil districts, the leading cause for resentment among the communities may not have developed.  

The NPP is now offering to treat all Sri Lankans the same, and the voters have placed their trust in them, ignoring their politicians who also played the race card to get votes.  However, ITAK and ACTC vow to pursue Tamil Nationalism in opposition.  Together, they received only 28% of the votes, while 72% went to other candidates.  I hope they understand the aspirations of Jaffna voters and play a constructive role – a good opposition is vital in any democracy.

Pooneriyn Bridge, Site of fierce Battles

A unique result is the election of an Independent Candidate from the Jaffna District.  He will be the only independent candidate among 225 in the National Parliament.  His platform vows to eliminate corruption and improves Governance, especially in Jaffna's healthcare system.  This should receive a perfect reception within the NPP.  Good luck to him.

This week's voting pattern of the people in the north, where the National Peoples' Power (NPP) secured three seats, surprised and raised many eyebrows in diaspora circles.  Several business people and groups among the diaspora were actively involved in this election by financing candidates and parties.  Some businessmen were financing Tamil Parties to satisfy their Nationalistic intentions and National Parties to improve their business opportunities in Sri Lanka.  They even financed campaigns against specific candidates within the party they endorsed.    

Palmyrah Trees - Without them, There's no Jaffna

Foreign financing of elections is usually prohibited in the West, but not so (and impossible to implement) in developing countries like Sri Lanka.  I believe we, the diaspora, left Sri Lanka for many reasons, and we should leave Sri Lankan politics, too.  There are a few calls from Jaffna requesting the diaspora to stop insulting Jaffna Voters, stay out of Sri Lankan politics, and stop sending funds to bad elements within the diaspora.  We should use our money to help improve the day-to-day lives of those who have paid a severe price during the Civil War – to get their children housed, fed, and educated.  I think many would agree with me.  Interestingly, some individuals in the diaspora are accused of collecting funds in the name of developing North and East but benefitting personally.  

Such widespread is the discontent within Jaffna and among the diaspora.  40% of registered voters did not vote, traditional Tamil parties win 2 of the six seats, the only independent to the parliamnent elected from Jaffna and a National Party wins 3 of the six seats. 

The NPP justifiably takes pride in winning handsomely in the North and the East.  It will retain its popularity in the North and the East if it can implement the four steps for reconciliation they have articulated in their manifesto.  They are requesting time to show what they can deliver – and we should give them the time they need.  After all, we have pursued other pathways, without much success over the past seventy-five years!

Uzbekistan – Then & Now

I went to Uzbekistan’s Capital for the first time in April 1999.  It was a few years after the Soviet Union collapsed.  That was then.  My last trip to Tashkent was in Feb 2024.  That’s now.  Since April 1999, I had been to Uzbekistan about ten times, travelled to Karakl Pakstan in the North, to Ayakchi and Termez in the South, and to Samarkhand and Bokhra in between.  I reflect on changes over these years under selected issues in this blog.

Samarkhand

Arrival 

Then:  I went to Tashkent with a Sri Lankan friend from Lahore, Pakistan.  We arrived in Tashkent on a Friday afternoon, and the airport arrival was very chaotic.  Hardly anyone spoke in English.  Arrival forms were issued only in Russian.  We approached an officer in uniform and sought help to fill out the forms.  He demanded 2 USD to help us complete the form, and we obliged.

Now:  My last trip was in Business class on Uzbekistan Airlines.  When we landed, all Business class passengers were transported by a limousine to immigration.  The immigration hall was neat.  There were hardly any passengers except us.  The officer was curious to see the security features on my Australian Passport, made some small talk, and stamped the Passport—no forms to fill.  Our luggage came to a quasi lounge, where refreshments were available at no costs.  Comfortable seating while our luggage arrived.

Visa

Then:  I had Australian Passport, yet I need to get prior visa.  Once I landed in Tashkent around noon, but my visa came into effect from midnight that day.  There were no flights on the day the visa became effective, so I landed without a visa to enter Tashkent about 10 hours before the visa would become effective.  I was sent to a detention center with an armed guard.  In the meantime, a message was sent to my hosts, and I was allowed to enter after 5 hours of detention.

Now: Australian passport holders do not need a visa to enter Uzbekistan and stay for 30 days.

Accommodation

Then: We could not communicate with anyone when we exited the airport.  We identified a young man who looked like a Pakistani.  We approached him for help.  He did not speak much English, but it was sufficient for us to communicate.  He hired a Taxi, took us to a money changer, and then to Tashkent Hotel.  The Tariff was about 20 USD per night.  It was not maintained well at all.  Barely liveable.  Each floor had a bar, and prostitutes were knocking at doors at night, soliciting sex.  Most of them turned out to be hotel employees.

Posh Hotels in Tashkent

Now:  The hotel I stayed in 1999 is now run by the Korean Company Lotte.  It’s a super 5-star hotel.  There are many good hotels to choose from, and the price of a decent hotel would start at around 50 USD.  Most of the hotels built during the Soviet period have been refurbished and managed to international standards.  There are strict dress code to use swimming pools at hotels.  Men's swim wear must cover from the wait to the knees.  Female workers at hotels will not enter your room, if you are a male, and present when they come to clean.

Alcohol

Then:  Excellent quality vodka was flowing freely then and was sold at every corner shop, and half a liter would cost about 1 USD.  Almost everyone I met would have a drink.  One of my hosts would drink during office hours.

Now: The sale of alcohol is restricted to specialized shops, and there are rules where they can be located.  In particular, alcohol can’t be sold at supermarkets, and liquor shops can’t be located near schools.  A half liter of vodka would cost about 6 USD.  The quality still remains excellent.

Religion

Then:  Although Islam is the main religion in Uzbekistan, there are hardly any mosques or religious insignia to note.

Islamics Institutions in Uzbek Cities

Now:  Almost every city in Uzbekistan has newly built mosques.  Many restaurants would not serve alcohol.  Several tuition centers teach Arabic and the Quran, and tour operators specialize in Haj and Umra in Saudi Arabia.  Uzbeks have been the second most common pilgrims to Mecca and Madina in recent years.

But there are things remain the same:

Natural Beauty:  The landscape vary tremendously across Uzbekistan.  It's borders with Afghanistan and Tajikistan are rugged and BEAUTIFUL.  The mountains are grazed by mountain goats are shepherded by young men on horses - a sight not to be missed.

The Wilderness of Uzbeks border with Tajikistan

Public transport – Intercity transport by speed trains and road infrastructure are some of the best I have experienced. 

Trains Travel at 250 km/hr, connecting major cities

And there's always the traditional means of transport

Food & Drinks:  Uzbekistan offers the best of cooked meats, fresh salads, fruits, bread, and, of course, alcohol.

Soups, Smosas, Salads, Kebabs and Bread - delicious 

Culture:  

Operas are a regular part of Uzbek's life - Then and Now

Heritage:

Uzbekistan is home to Samarkhand and Bokhara, but, less known is a Budhist Monastery along the border with Afghanistan.

Budhist monastery 2000 years ago at Termez

Friendship and hospitality:  Uzbeks are second to none in this area.  The blend of Soviet customs with Islamic values is still potent when they host friends.  Nothing but the best is reserved for their visitors.

Jaffna is Back

I was born in Jaffna, and except for two years of primary education, I did all my primary and secondary education in Jaffna.  My grandparents, parents, uncles, aunts, teachers, schoolmates, and neighbors shaped my ways as I grew from a kid to an adult.  Although my life in Jaffna is only 15 years, about 20% of my life, the Jaffna boy inside me is very much alive.  

Except for two weeks in August 1984, I was absent from Jaffna from 1980 till 2010 for many reasons.  My first return to Jaffna in 2010 was arranged by my close friends from Bibila!  Since then, I have been to Jaffna a few times, and always for two or three days, because during the past 45 years, I have pretty much lost all contacts in Jaffna.  I felt that Jaffna was frozen for the 30 years I was away.  Nothing has changed except remnants of the war, such as the bullet-ridden railway station.

Jaffna Railway Station immediately after the war, and at present

My last trip was this week, again for two days.  During the Civil War, we had nearly 30 years of damage done to the infrastructure and morale of people in Jaffna.  In 2010, I felt that it might take more than two generations for those left in Jaffna to bounce back and lead the life they deserve – free from fear and violence, exhibit their entrepreneurial skills, and prosper.

After my trip this week, I believe that have been pessimistic in my views.  I think Jaffna is back, developed, and at par with any other city of the same size in Sri Lanka or anywhere else in South Asia.  Here are my reasons.

Education

Education up to high school was the best in Jaffna in Sri Lanka.  There were more A-grade high schools in Jaffna than in Colombo, the Capital, thanks to a healthy competition between Christian Missionaries and Hindu philanthropists.  Only a mile or two separated these high schools.  They produced top-notch applicants to Universities in Sri Lanka, which led to a foolish standardization system that led to the Civil War.  It was a sad development, which has been gradually rectified since then.  But it was too late to change the direction of movements that sought separation.  I think recruiting students to publicly funded universities now is fair and provides sufficient opportunities for students from rural areas without depriving those with merit.

The Administration Building of Faculty of Engineering, Jaffna University  

I visited the Faculty of Engineering of Jaffna Campus for a few hours and met with three academics.  The relatively recent infrastructure is as good as any university campus I have been to in Asia.  Of course, the essence of being old, which is ever present at Peradeniya University, is not at the Faculty of Engineering, Jaffna.  That has to be expected.  All three spoke confidently, were proud of their curriculum, and used government and international collaborators' funds to build the teaching and research facilities.  By splitting the students into groups and clever time-tabling, all students have equal access to their facilities.  The Engineering Society of Sri Lanka accredits the curriculum.  Hence, an Engineering student from Jaffna has the same education a student from Moratuwa or Peradeniya University would have.  They want to do more and build their research and post-graduate program.  A few of my Jaffna-origin contacts, who are internationally reputed, are volunteering time to support the young academics.  I have volunteered online support, the best I could do.

Religion

An attribute that underpins Jaffna culture is Religion.  All religions thrived, and Jaffna never experienced religious conflicts.  Everyone worshipped at all religious institutions.  A British Friend once said that Sri Lankans take insurance from all Gods—no chances taken.

Temples, Churches, and Mosques were unscathed even during the Civil War.  Despite the call for Muslims to evacuate from the Jaffna Peninsula during the Civil War, there's no evidence of mosques being damaged.  Now that the Islamic community has returned to their ancestral homes, they thrive well in Jaffna.  

All temples have their Kopurams (towers) repainted, which brims with pride.  Even the temple tower at Mavittapuram temple is undergoing rehabilitation.  It was used by Hindu fanatics to discriminate against fellow Hindus, leading the Courts to order a shutdown for all.  When the Courts in Sri Lanka denied the fanatics' call to refuse entry to specific Hindu Communities, the proponents took the case to the Privy Council in the UK.  It remains the last case taken from Sri Lanka to the Privy Council, and the Council did not entertain it either.  Unfortunately, the man who led the case for the fanatics was considered an intellectual of the time.  He was not alone.  It was the time when many intelectulas, used their interlect to pander hate among Sri Lankans.  Donald Trumps of Sri Lanka!

It can never happen in Jaffna anymore.  Jaffna is a much better society now than it was in the sixties.  During the Civil War, the Temple fell within the Protective Zone, and Government forces refused entry to this zone for decades.  All of it is history – efforts are underway to bring the Temple to the glory it deserves.

Maavittapuram Temple Kopuram is being renovated

Festivals at Temples are at their best ever now.  In the seventies, a neighborhood Temple my family went to had a Priest who would be assisted by another priest from a neighborhood temple during annual festivals.  I went there a few days ago when the annual festival was inaugurated this year.  The Chief Priest had five assistants.  Rituals are expanded more than they were in the seventies.  Garments worn by the deities and the priests were more colorful than before, reflecting their availability and affordability.  Good on them.

Vibrant Poojas at Hindu Temples

Industry and Economy

Before the Civil War, there were two prominent factories; one produced Cement at Kankesanthurai, and another produced chemicals at Paranthan.  The cement factory contributed to air pollution and breathing difficulties for locals.  Both have been inactive since the commencement of the Civil War.  There have been discussions and plans to rehabilitate the facilities and resume operations over the years, but progress has been slow.  Large capital injections would be required, and the revival must be done based on its environmental sustainability and financial viability.  Recently, the garment industry has emerged as a significant employer in Kilinochhi.  I also know that the Tamil Diaspora supports small businesses with Capital and expertise.  There are Travel agencies, Goat farms, and Construction Companies supporting the Jaffna Economy.  The Jaffna Bazaar is full of people.  

Jaffna Bus Station

Descendants of successful businessmen in the seventies have re-established businesses, maintaining the brand names – Subhas and Gnanams, for example.

Gnanam Guesthouse - It was Gnanam Studio in the Seventies - Yes, we went to a studio to take photos

Lifestyle

I cannot comment on this, as my stays have always been brief.  But what I saw on the streets was encouraging.  Newly built bridges have solar powered street lights.

Road connecting Poonagari with Jaffna Penisula - A site of fierce battles during the Civil War

Despite far better roads now, there's traffic – mostly motorbikes and scooters, and fewer bicycles than before.  School children are appropriately dressed and marching to school with cricket-wickets.  

Books in the back, and Wickets in hand, time for school

Auto rickshaws and mini busses have replaced hire cars of the sixties, in which students were stacked as sardines.  Women of all ages are on scooters – they move freely, which is always a good sign of the social fabric.  

Women on the move, as always!

There are restaurants and eateries everywhere, at all prices.  The abundance of these restaurants indicates that the locals are frequenting them to ensure their financial viability.  I think they should serve local foods, rice & curry, hoppers and so on.  Most of the upper-end restaurants serve Chinese and Indian food rather than Jaffna food.  Maybe because people eat Jaffna food at home and want to try something different when they go out, I get it.

Chollan Restraurant in Kilinochi - Could easily seat 100 patrons at a time

Deceased are taken on modified four-wheel drives.  And the drummers are playing modern drums – not the locally made drums (parais).  The tunes have not changed, though.

Overall, Jaffna's resurgence is a testimony to the resilience within human beings.  Without the war and injection of funds from the government, donors, and the diaspora, and with their hard work and inherent values, Jaffna is BACK!

Student Protests & Life without Internet in Dhaka

I came to Dhaka on the 13th of July 2024 for work, and I was informed by a Bangladeshi friend that there had been ongoing protests rejecting a quota system for Government Jobs.  56% of all jobs are reserved for various groups, and the remainder was provided to the candidates on pure merit.  The key beneficiaries are the freedom fighters and their descendants, for whom 30% of all Government vacancies are reserved.  This is in addition to a lifelong pension for the freedom fighters, which I have no problems with.  The other 26% is allocated to women, indigenous people, LGBTQ, and disabled populations.  It is interesting to note that there are allocations for women and the LGBTQ community in a Muslim dominant country,

Protesters in front of the Hotel Intercontinental at 1:30 AM

My concern is the effect of a quota system, which will deny positions to those better qualified than to those who are less qualified.  I think the less qualified will introduce mediocracy within the Government Bureaucracy and trigger a vicious cycle of decline in productivity.  

Furthermore, it reminded me of the quota system introduced in the 1970s in Sri Lanka, which led to a civil war that lasted for 30 years.  Will Bangladeshis lose the fruits of the sacrifices during their liberation war to their self-inflicted quota system?

As I pondered, my meetings with government functionaries were held as planned, on the 14th and the 15th.  Then, the protests started affecting my meetings.  On the 16th, as I finished a meeting at the USAID Bangladesh and was about to exit the building, the siren went off, and the PABX announced to everyone to duck under a table and stay away from windows.  Security personnel, including a few armed US Soldiers, were running around, and building doors and compound gates were shut electronically.  I was in a modern prison with US Embassy and US AID staff for about two hours.  Finally, I was granted special permission to be escorted outside the building.

I called a UBER to return to my hotel.  Communication in Dhaka in English was much more difficult than in Delhi or Colombo.  What makes it more difficult is that even the number plates of cars carry Bengali numerals instead of Arabic numerals.  So, I would not know when the ride I booked will arrive and will be unable to communicate with the driver.  Fortunately, UBER provides real-time car movement on its App, and the fare to be paid is displayed at the journey's end.  

The journey back to the hotel from the Embassy had many hurdles.  Several roads were blocked, and traffic was not moving on roads that were not blocked.  The driver struggled.  At times, he must do a U-Turn, come to a point he had been there before, and chart a new course.  The journey, which was to take 30 minutes, took about 75 minutes, and I reached the hotel.

On the 17th, I was advised to stay at the hotel.  Meetings were arranged at the hotel or online.  I managed to go to a market about 2 km from the hotel on a cycle rickshaw for a haircut and lunch.  I used the remaining time to catch up with documentation.  

The Government hosted a dinner for my delegation at the hotel.  While we were at dinner, the news broke that six protesters had been killed.  The PM was on TV, promised necessary actions against the perpetrators, and appealed to the students to wait until the Supreme Court decides on the applicability of the quota system on Sunday, the 21st.  The appeal was to no avail.

The students called for a national strike on the 18th.  Again, I used the time for paperwork, had a meeting online, and met with personnel from another government agency who defied the restrictions and came to meet with my delegation.  I went to sleep at 8 pm but woke up at midnight to find out that 29 students had been killed, and the Government TV station had been set alight.  

All communications within and outside Bangladesh had been cut – no internet, no phones, etc.

As I write this on the 19th morning, I am still in the hotel without access to the rest of the world, especially my wife and daughters!  While taking a lift to the lobby, I met a few Indian youngsters, discussing how to contact families at home and sharing my concerns.  One of them sounded optimistic; he was telling his friends that he could send messages to his family.  I sought his help, and he obliged.  I sent a text message to my wife.  The Indian also told me that I could use the hotel phone to make a call internationally, but after dialing the number, I had to wait about 30 seconds to connect.  I tried, and it worked, but the connection was scrambled and too poor.  It was good enough for my wife to recognize me and for me to recognize her.  We understood that all was okay at both ends.  

Now, I am a Prisoner of events.  I spent the day listening to Donald Trump rambling at the RNC Convention.  I also learned that an IT outage disrupted flights in Australia and Europe.  

There was no letdown of protests in Dhaka.  Now, the death toll has risen to 50, and a high-profile Opposition leader has been arrested.  I was woken up by the hotel reception at 1:30 am on the 20th to be informed that the Government had issued a curfew order, and I should not leave the hotel until further notice.

I began to appreciate the power the technology, the Internet, in particular, has over us.  With no Internet access and IT outages affecting travel, we are now prisoners to technology.  Although alone, I cannot use my time effectively without access to the Net.  The way we deal with academic issues has changed.  Before the Internet days, we did a literature search and assembled the necessary information and data before starting writing.  Now, we have a narrative in mind and seek information on the fly, as it is available for us to access anytime.  The Internet has changed the way our brain works!  

The only consolation during this semi-confinement was the access to BBC, CNN, and Al Jazeera to understand how the world is moving on without me.

7:30 AM 20th July.  Al Jazeera reported the deployment of the Army on the streets and a death toll of over 105, and the arrests were about 70.  The situation is not improving.  Still, I have no access to the Internet.  The curfew was lifted at noon but reimposed at 2 pm.  

The panic is about to set inside of me.  I asked how I could go to the airport on Monday, two days from now.  The hotel receptionist said to wait another day before I made reservations for hotel transport.  For a trip that should cost 800 BDT, I am paying 6800 BDT to be safe and use hotel transport.  

I was told my ticket would be the curfew pass, and I needed a hard copy.  I can't send emails, as I would have done if I had access to the Internet.  So, I copied my e-ticket to my USB drive and returned to the reception, only to find out the PCs at the reception do not have USB ports.  I was sent to the Business Center; USB ports were present on the PC but had been disabled on their PC.  The Officer brought a laptop and connected it to the printer but failed to pick the correct printer for printing the file.  There were four printers on the desk!  Finally, I got my ticket printed and returned to my room.  

Joys of our dependence on continuously changing technology.  Fifteen years ago, USB drives were state-of-the-art and a potential source of viruses and security breaches.

My friend visited me during the curfew.  He lives about ten minutes' walk from the hotel.  He said it was safe to go out walking to a local market near the hotel, so we did.  He took me to a kitchen bazaar, where essential food commodities are sold.  It appears there are a few kitchen bazaars in Dhaka.

My favourite Vegetable at Kitchen Bazzar near Karwaan Bazzar

I wanted to shorten the length of my trousers and took that with me.  The bazaar was active and full of street vendors despite the curfew.  No protests, though.  Young men were playing cricket in a half-empty market space.  We found a street tailor who agreed to mend the pants.  While waiting, one of the acquaintances of the tailor lamented that the Bangladeshis were destined to suffer.  He is not very wrong.  Over the past 55 years, it had a liberation war, the assassination of the PM and family, military rule for more than 15 years, and few changes of Government.  The current party has been in power for more than 15 years and got re-elected about six months ago.  Many feel that the election was rigged in its favor.   

Street Side Tailor

I bought a couple of sarongs, a mango, a pineapple cut into bite sizes, and a lunch pack.  Tropical fruits in Bangladesh are delicious.  We returned to the hotel by motorized cycle rickshaw, a local invention.

Motorised Cycle Rickshaw

Now it is 7:10 am on the 21st.  Still no internet, and the curfew will be lifted in a few hours.  The Supreme Court's verdict on the legality of the quota system is expected in a few hours.  If the SC voids the quota system, the original call from the students will be met.  But, over the past day or two, they are calling for the resignation of the PM for mishandling the protests, which will not happen.  No one relinquishes power so easily.  

I feel very bored and dejected this morning.  There appears to have been a jailbreak, and 826 prisoners have escaped.  I am beginning to understand how a prisoner would feel.  Isolation is horrible for the human mind.  I have plenty to do, but I can't without access to the Internet.  It had been well over 48 hours without the Internet.  This technology underpins almost every aspect of our lives and has been rudely denied by the Government.  I wonder if denying access to the Internet these days is a human rights violation.  I have nothing to look forward to for the day except a lunch meeting with fellow team members who are also staying at the hotel.  They will leave the hotel in about 12 hours, and I will leave it in about 24 hours, Insha Allah.

Around 2 pm, the Supreme Court decided in favor of the students' demand.  Allocation to freedom fighters' kin is reduced from 30% to 5%.  Indigenous, disabled, and LGBTQ population gets 2%, and the remaining 93% is allocated on merit.  The noticeable drop is the special allocation to women, probably because they are academically doing well as well or better than their male counterparts.

The competition is for about 3000 Government jobs annually.  For a country of 151 million, this is a small number.  Yet, the revision of the quota has cost over 140 lives and caused enormous property losses.  A government TV station, a Data Analytics Center, and two newly built metro stations are damaged, and the repair is expected to take a year.  The interest in obtaining these rare government jobs tells us that the private sector is yet to be an attractive employment sector in Bangladesh, which is the case now in Sri Lanka.

As I expected, the students wanted more.  They have an additional eight demands; one of them is the release of about 70 leaders who were arrested, and the other is the resignation of two key Ministers.  I'm not sure if the Government will agree to the second demand.

My team members left at 7:30 pm.  I felt a bit sad; I had become accustomed to their company over the past week.  A hotel staffer said that there was only one foreign Guest remaining.  That's me.  I am the last man standing at the hotel.  I, too, will leave in about 12 hours.

I left for the airport in the morning, and the roads were empty.  The hotel provided me with a car, a driver, and a security guard.  There was only one roadblock on the way, and soldiers recognizing the hotel car let it pass without delay.  Thanks to the curfew, a journey that would take about 90 minutes took only 15 minutes.  The driver had special access to the terminal, so he took my bags, cleared security, and let me at the check-in counter.  I felt that it was a good service for the extra 6000 BDT.  I will be genuinely relieved once I board the Plane.

Discovering Dhivehi Raajje

For those who do not know where Dhivehi Raajje is, it is the native name of the Maldives.  Their language is Dhivehi, a kingdom ruled by a Royal Family until 1968, hence the name.  I spent about ten days in May 2023, primarily working but also taking some time to relax.  The work took me to three islands, Thoddoo, Masafahi, and Hanamadhoo.  So, ten days on planes, boats, Taxis, and Foot.

Until I went to Maldives and spoke to locals, I assumed that the name Maldives is derived from Maalai (garland in Tamil) and Theevu (Island in Tamil), an archipelago shaped like a garland.  To my eyes, the archipelago does look like a garland.  No one in the Maldives has heard of this interpretation – it looks like it is made up in Sri Lanka (or probably in my imagination because Tamil is my native language).  Locals explain that Mal is from the Arabic Word, Mahall, meaning a stopping place, and  Dives meaning deep.

The Maldives

The Maldives comprises approximately 1200 islands, of which about 200 were inhabited.  In addition, it has a countless number of lagoons.  A population concentration drive reduced the number of inhabited islands to 186, but an electoral reorganization ended it to 187.  Each Island has at least a Jetty, a Mosque, a School, a Hospital, a Court, a Soccer grounds, and an Island Council Office.  All basic amenities are available on each Island and paid for by the public purse.  Some have airports to land propeller aircraft, which brings the Tourists to remote Islands.  Each Atoll has an Atoll Capital, and ferry services are available daily from these Capitals to each Inhabited Island within the Atoll.

A few Agricultural entrepreneurs have leased some uninhabited islands to grow tropical vegetables and fruits to supply other islands.  In addition, the hospitality industry had leased a few uninhabited islands and built Resorts.  They are the ones used to promote tourism in the Maldives, depicting the sun, waves, beaches, and the ocean. 

Tourism promotion does not accurately reflect the local culture.

View of a Resort Island

The culture in inhabited islands is Islamic, but in the Resort islands, flexible to meet the requirements of tourists.  I noticed that women live actively on inhabited islands within Islamic strictures.  They enjoy the beaches and are very mobile (on scooters), which is very pleasing compared to other Islamic countries I have lived or been to. 

Mobility of Women

Tourism, Fisheries, and low population have made Maldives the most developed South Asian Nation.  The workforce is largely from South Asia.  The combination of the Islamic lifestyle, the South Asian Workforce,  and the state of development reminded me of Oman, where I lived for nine years.  Their appearance, the many words they speak, and their phonetics reminded me of Sri Lanka, where I was born and grew up.  I was very comfortable there!

Fisheries - A Major Economic Sector

The streets of Male, especially in the older part, reminded me of Europe.  They were laid with bricks, and both sides were treelined.  Scooters parked neatly and tightly along the sides, stacked like sardines.  Most of the city's speed limits are about 30 km/h, and the cars take a gentle stroll.  The tariff of Taxis is fixed – transport within a locality is 30 MVR ( <2 USD), and between localities is 55 MVR (~3.5 USD).  There's no metering or haggling.  Expats are not allowed to drive Taxis, and most Taxi drivers speak well in English.  Traffic is largely disciplined, although Police are not visible.

Streets of Male

Even on inhabited islands, tourism is the mainstay.  All consumed goods have three taxes and a special fourth one for tourists.  Approximately 35% of what you pay is for the Government, in different taxes.  

The Thoddoo Island

I was on an Island named Thoddoo, a population of 2000, of which half are expats.  The size is about 4 km², with about 60 Motels and a dedicated beach for tourists, where requirements of swimming attire are relaxed.  Swimming suits are not allowed outside this dedicated beach, and the locals avoid these beaches.  They have their own!

A dedicated beach for Tourists at Thoddoo

In addition to the Islands, countless Ocean Lagoons provide different ecosystems and offer a potential for reclamation.  The lagoons have coral barriers, preventing Ocean waters from mixing with Lagoon water.  Waves are stopped by these coral barriers, making the corals look like white fences.  The water inside the lagoon remains calm and, based on the depth, provides different hues of blue.  Some Lagoons near the Capital, Male, are being reclaimed for habitation.  I stayed in one of them named Hulhumale.  The development is in several phases, and the first has been completed.  Hulhumale is connected to Male by a bridge, providing access to the airport and Government Offices in Male.

Reclaiming Lagoons

The Capital, Male, is very vibrant, but the islands are the opposite – just too quiet.  So, it is your destination if you want to be in a vibrant as well as a quiet place.  And, of course, if you have a lot of money to spend, there are Resort Islands, some offer Rooms for 25,000 USD per night, I am told.  On average, a room in Male will cost about 75 USD; in a resort, it will cost about 250 USD per night.