Ayutthaya is not Ayodhya

Until very recently, I often wondered what could be common between Ayutthaya in Thailand, and Ayodhya in Uttar Pradesh, India. I was confused between the two, because, both names sounded the same, many Hindu fables are very much in conversation in Thailand, and Thais and the Indians consider Rama, as God.  Rama was born in Ayodhya, but he had nothing to do with Ayutthaya.  Ayutthaya was founded in circa 1350 and was destroyed by an invading Burmese army in the 18th Century.  It was the second largest city of Siam and was a centre for Buddhist culture, as long as it thrived.

Panoramic View of the History Park, Ayutthaya

Thanks to an email from Thai Airways, informing that some of my frequent flyer points are about to expire, I took a three-day trip to Bangkok recently.  I went there for the first time in 1993, had been there for work, representing CSIRO, IWMI, SQU Oman, and ADB, the institutions I worked for.  I have also transited Bangkok many times, travelling between Sydney and Lahore/Muscat/Colombo.  But I was never a serious tourist, except until now.

The Ministry of Defence, Thailand.  Note the new King's portrait

I wanted to go to Ayutthaya from Bangkok by train.  I did my homework, figured out that I need to take the Airport Rail Link from Lat Krabang to a Railway Junction, Hua Lamphong, and then get the train to Ayutthaya.  I took a Taxi from the hotel around 6 AM and told the driver to take me to Lat Krabang.  I showed him the Airport Rail Map, and we interrogated Google Maps in Thai and English, and we were on our way.  Except, instead of the Airport Rail Link Station, he dropped me at an intersection in Lat Krabang, and I realized that I need to try another mode of transport.

The Grand Palace - as it welcomes you

I saw four men sitting around a small coffee table and drinking beer and a Thai alcohol concoction around 6 AM.  I asked them for directions to the Airport Link station, but the communication was not going well.  Finally, one of them, who spoke a bit of English, asked me what I wanted to do.  I said that I wanted to go to Ayutthaya.  He offered to arrange a taxi for the day for 70USD.  I agreed.  He called one of his friends, who was a Taxi driver.  When the taxi arrived, the broker took a commission of 5 USD from the driver and introduced me to the driver.  The Driver spoke less English than the guy who arranged the trip, but, on his smartphone, he had an App, which translated Thai to English and vice versa.  What a blessing!  I gave him a list of ten sites I wanted to visit in Ayutthaya, and we were on our way!

Alms Giving at a Buddhist Temple - Actually, there's no giving.  You help yourself!

The first stop was Wat Yai Chaimongkorn, a monastery built in the 14th Century to house Scholars exchanged between Thailand, and Sri Lanka.  I was very proud to read that.  It was the same feeling I had when I went to Sarnath and Bodh Gaya, both were ‘rediscovered’ by Anagarika Dharmapala, a Sri Lankan Buddhist Scholar, who led the rehabilitation of both sacred sites.  I then wondered how such Sri Lankan Scholars permitted the growth of a ‘fundamentalist’ stream of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.  I hope they assert the values of Buddha and remove the politicians, and fundamentalists bringing disrepute to the Lord.  It’s never too late.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkorn - Where Scholars trained in Sri Lanka Stayed

Wat Chaiwatthanaram - In memory of the Queen Mother

One after the other, I went to the sites I wanted to see.  All looked grand, ruined and similar.  Where ever I went, the Lord was sleeping, meditating or blessing.  He wasn’t angry as some of the Hindu deities are, or in pain, as Jesus is.

Sleeping Buddha at Wat Lokaya Sutha, Ayuthaya

At Wat Mahathat the roots of the tree had embraced the Lord.  

At another, a massive Buddha, 19 m tall, was called, Golden Buddha.  Not sure if it is made of gold, but it is possible that a smaller one, just in front of the BIG one is made of gold.

Golden Buddha

At two sites in Ayutthaya, I saw several yellow t-shirt groups being lectured on how to prevent the spread of the Corona Virus, which is menacing China, Thailand, the Philippines, and the others.  I assumed that the speakers were from the health department or an NGO.  The volunteers, once well-informed, were to go on spreading the message.  I sensed a community spirit among them.

One of the organizers explained what was going on to me, and was happy to tell me that he had been to the Temple of Tooth, in Sri Lanka.  I recalled a Nepali, I met a few years ago, who told me about his pilgrimage to Nagadeepa, another Buddhist shrine in Sri Lanka.  I have not heard of Sri Lanka, promoted as a religious-tourist location.  I think the Government needs to consider promoting Sri Lanka, at least in the Far-East as a Religious tourist destination.

Wishing 'Well' at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhorn - 

People make a wish and drop a coin from the top of the Stupa

The next day, I visited the Grand Palace, the Emerald Buddha Chappel, and Wat Pho. 

Having got used to the driver, and I asked him if he would like to show me around the sites of Bangkok, for a similar fee.  He declined and advised me to take public transport, the Airport Link and the Metropolitan Rapid Transit.  He said it will be more efficient and would cost me a fraction.  And, he was right.  There are three rail links in Bangkok, the Airport Rail Link, Metropolitan Rapid Transit, and the State Railway of Thailand.  Unfortunately, they are not seamlessly woven together, but it is not difficult to go from one to another, where they intersect.  I used the MRT and the ARL, very inexpensive and well connected.

At the Wat Pho, where the reclining Buddha is, I witnessed something very sweet.  Along the walls, there are wishing bowls, in which people drop a coin and make a wish.  I saw a young man with European appearance, must be British, because, he made his wish in English, followed by his wife/girlfriend.  The man wished that he should have a baby soon, and the women followed him said, 'I wish the same'.  I too wish the same for both of them.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho

The Grand Palace -  You must see to appreciate the grandeur

The Emerald Buddha Chappel at the Grand Palace

And finally, it will be remiss of me, if I do not comment on the sex industry in Bangkok.  In 1993, when I went, I was stalked by prostitutes and harassed by pimps.  It is no longer the case.  Maybe I look old enough so that I attract neither of them.  But, I think the city has developed, citizens are better educated, and the industry is better regulated.  Yes, it is all there, but, only for those looking for them, not, for others.